Fermenting Fantastic Food

Monthly Archives: January 2013

Preserved Grapefruit, Lime or Orange

Taste the rainbow

A couple of weeks ago, I posted about an old favorite of mine, preserved lemons.  Turns out there were a lot of questions.  Okay, there was one question, asked many, many times across all social media.  It was, “Can I do it with x?” where x =  a citrus fruit that isn’t a lemon.  My resounding answer was yes!  You totally can!  The only issue I’ve found is that they aren’t as versatile as the lemons, which I will put on and in just about anything.  I put a bit more salt in with the sweeter fruit (oranges and grapefruits) and into each jar I add the juice of a lemon for greater acidity.  When you do your daily shake and smash, give it a sniff.  If it smells like some kind of citrus crack you can’t stop sniffing, all is well.  If after a few days, it starts smelling slightly alcoholic, like an ambrosial arancello (or whatever the lime and grapefruit versions are called), add another dash of salt and a little squeeze of lemon juice and check back the following day.

Salted grapefruit, nearly quartered

So what’s the point of the almost quartering thing?  Anyone who has ever made a quick pickle knows that salting helps the produce release its juices.  This juice-releasing is really helpful for this process because you need the maximum amount of juice out of your fruit if you’re going to end up with submerged fruit.  When you salt and reform the fruit, you get the surfaces all good and salted, which makes for maximum squashing ease.

Feel free to experiment with seasonings or leave them out all together.  Remember that anything you add before fermentation will limit the versatility of your final product.

Process after the jump.

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Fermentation Basics – Ginger Beer

I just stirred, so there aren’t a ton of bubbles. Once strained, this ginger bug will yield an intensely flavored and fizzy drink.

Foodwise, we mostly had communal meals of ridiculously expensive but wonderfully-prepared pasta (no one was gluten-free in those days), but a couple times we ventured to solid, cheap local spots on our own and tried some knockout dishes.  Fungi, which is not a mushroom but a kind of delicious mush made from cornmeal, sorrel and, of course, the “real” ginger beer were the stand-out menu items.  My immediate reaction was, “I have to learn how to make this stuff!”

Ginger beer I still make today, and let me just tell you, no store-bought ginger beer has anything on the stuff you make at home.  These days, I play around a little bit more (other ingredients, etc,), but the basic recipe is so simple that it’s hard to mess with.

One serious disclaimer: do not use a glass container for this.  We’re talking serious risks here.  You are intentionally cultivating the pressure in your bottle and your container really can explode.   With plastic, this could be messy.  With glass, it could be dangerous.  Even once you’ve reached your desired fermentation level, you will notice that it’s still fermenting in the fridge (albeit much more slowly).  So again, glass is probably a bad choice here.

As with all ferments, the timing of the fermentation process will vary according to the season and the temperature of your home.  Keep your eyes and fingers (to test pressure) on it.  They won’t lead you astray.

Process after the jump.

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7 Tips for Swapping Food and Building Community

Some delicious swap items

For the past year and a halfish I’ve had the pleasure of being one of four organizers of the Philly Food Swap.  We’ve traipsed around the city from Unitarian churches to horticultural libraries and urban farms.  We’ve met so many amazing home cooks, bakers, canners and makers.  I wanted the swap to exist because I wanted to feel more connected to a community that I knew must exist in this city.  This community certainly does exist, and I’m very proud to be a part of it!

If you want to join us for a future swap here are a few things I’ve learned over our brief and fruitful run:

1.  Do not be intimidated!  People are nice.  You are probably good at making something, or you wouldn’t be super interested in coming to a swap in the first place.  You should make something you would want to eat and not stress out a whole lot.  I’ve definitely made failed dishes for the swap before!  No big, I took them home and enjoyed them.  Which brings me to point number 2…

2.  Don’t take it personally!  Your item may be the belle of the ball, your swap sheet filled on both sides.  Or, you may make something awesome and have only one or two names on your list.  Either way, don’t take it personally!  I promise you most of us regular swappers have had the flubs and the fame and in the long run, it means nothing and it is certainly no reflection on your skills or creativity. I’ve taken home delicious things that I didn’t bid on or that I was the only one who bid on thinking only that my fellow swappers really missed out.  Don’t sweat it.  Come back and try again.  Next time, you might have the must-have item.  It’s not you!  It’s them.

Some pretty swap items

 

3.  Don’t kill yourself.  You are making food for your friends and neighbors, not Martha Stewart and Ruth Reichl.  If gorgeous packaging and elaborate staging are your bread and butter, go for it!  If you thrive on executing extremely complex recipes, then hey, you go.  But for the rest of us, making something that tastes awesome and looks good is a big win.  If you’re staying up until 4am the night before the swap, you might be doing it wrong (unless that’s your thing.  No judgment here).

Allyson always has brilliant packaging ideas. Sometimes simple and cute, sometimes elaborate and gorgeous. She’s an artist so I don’t hold it against her.

 

4.  Bring samples.  If you wonder why your items didn’t fly off the table (see #3), the first thing you should look at is samples.  They make a HUGE difference.  You can chop up tiny pieces and they don’t have to be pretty, but people are much more likely to swap you when they know what they’re getting.  Human nature, right?

5.  Be sociable!  By all means, come with a friend if you have one who’d be into it.  But don’t just hang out with them.  What’s the point of that?  We have a wonderful community of Philly food people and you, yes you, should know them.  I’m gonna say that 99.9% of the people who have been at every swap are open and friendly and there to meet like-minded people, see what’s cookin’ in Philly and share the goodness from their hearth.  There was that one douchebag that one time, but happily we never saw that person again :-) .

Lee of Feed Me Lee, Organizer Alexis of Teaspoons and Petals, Organizer Georgia of Oh Kitchen, What Won’t You Do?, lovely swappers and Allyson of Manifest Vegan

 

6.  Sign-up early (and don’t bail)!  We would love to let the whole world come, believe me. But we do this whole deal for free, in donated venues and therefore have space limitations.  So please, follow us on Facebook and Twitter, get on our mailing list and sign-up as soon as the event is posted.  It “sells” out quickly and we want you there!  Also please don’t be the dick who bails the morning of the swap, or worse yet the no-show.  There is usually a waiting list, but asking the waitlisted to prepare swap items with little notice is a bit much.

7.  Take photos!  I will eventually remember to do this one myself, but for now, you’re stuck with what photos I remembered to take (aka the first 15 minutes).  For instance, I have no photos of Organizer Marisa of Food In Jars or Sara of Cozy Herbivore or Kelly of Kelly Bakes or any of the other amazing swappers who write and made tasty (and often gorgeous) things to share.

 

My other swap items (assorted starters and kombucha)

 

Bosc pears poached in star anise, cinnamon, clove syrup and homemade mozzarella and oven-dried tomatoes marinated in herby olive oil. Courtesy of my amazing husband! (horrible photo quality courtesy of me)

 

Organizer Georgia and her lovely family. It’s Stella’s first swap!

I took home a great haul this time.  Bitters from Sara, chickpea miso from Dawn, pickled beets from Lee, chocolate stout marshmallows from Kelly, cardamom biscuits from Alexis, apricot butter from Marisa, red wine vinegar from Emily and so many more things from people whose names I can’t recall.  It was my husband’s first swap, and he definitely dug the vibe.  He’ll be at the next one and I hope you will too!!

If you attended the swap, I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments.  If you happen to know you swapped with me, let me know that too and I’ll link you into the post!

Guest Post from ChickenMushrooms.com – The Mother Maker

We’ve got quite a treat for you today, dear readers!  Tyler is visiting from Chicken Mushrooms to tell us about his great SCOBY search.  If you don’t already know Tyler, his site is definitely worth checking out.  A serious fungi aficionado, he’s been experimenting with the cultivation of certain varieties of mushroom that haven’t yet been cultivated.  You can and should track his progress and adventures on his site!  Super interesting stuff.  I was lucky enough to meet Tyler (a real fun guy) through Indy Hall’s amazing den mother, Adam Tetrus.  He thought we might have a few things to discuss.  Smart guy, that Adam.

Contrary to what we usually encourage here at Phickle, please follow Tyler’s directive to NOT try this at home!  This is a fascinating, beautiful story of culturing, and a project better left the the fungi experts like Tyler.  

For you mycophiles out there, Tyler took a brief video of his foraging adventure.  You can check it out on YouTube by clicking this link.  Enjoy!

-Amanda

 

Scorias spongiosa and its peachy keen mother

One afternoon in July I was enjoying a glass of herb-infused kombucha, reveling in the fact that I was ingesting living cells whose progenitors had existed in culture for centuries, perhaps longer.

Where did that first Mother come from?  Who was this Mother of all Mothers, this beautifully slimy and filmy Eve?

Unlike her biblical namesake, when this Eve was first cast forth from her Garden and into the chalice of an adventurous tea-drinker, it’s unlikely that all of her made it out.  She must still be out there, thriving in her native land as radiant and globular as the day she was discovered.

Kombucha first arose in Eastern Asia, somewhere between Siberia and Japan.  Russians, Chinese, Koreans, and Japanese all claim that they were the first to culture her.  We’ll never know for sure.

I decided to search for Eve, not in Asia, but in Pennsylvania.  I thought perhaps she is ubiquitous, hiding away in any suitable niche that will sustain her microbial plumes.  Even if Eve is absent from this continent, maybe her sister is here, lurking about in a bog or under a rock.  Perhaps there’s an altogether different complex of microbes in our own backyard that will give us Kombucha 2.0, just in time to meet the growing demand for kombucha and other fermented treasures at home.

Where would one look for Eve?  Well, we know she has a sweet tooth.  And we know that, although she isn’t a mushroom, the name “Manchurian Mushroom” has stuck, so maybe there’s something to that.  Might she be hanging out in a mushroom?

Hiking in the woods one day in August- Images of hypothetical Eves playing in my mind- I stumbled upon a bewildering set of phenomena playing out in a Beech tree.  Above me, snowflakes were dancing on a limb.  At my feet, a gray sooty splotch was covering the dead leaves.  Looking around for an answer, I noticed a blob clinging to a root.   “What the hell is going on here?”

Every summer, boogie-woogie aphids, so named for the way they shake their waxen tailfeathers, line up along the branches of Fagus grandifolia, our American Beech.  The nymphs look more like dancing snowflakes than tiny insects, but when you look closely you can see the tiny aphids underneath their fancy plumage, suckling blissfully at the beech sap.

The aphid nymphs extract nitrogen from the sap, along with some carbohydrates.  What’s leftover after they get their fix is a very sweet, condensed substance called honeydew, a favorite treat of forest bugs.  In some parts of the world, ants have co-evolved with aphids, offering them protection in exchange for their sweet excrement.  The patches I’ve seen are frequented by yellowjackets, but also an unusual suspect: the Scorias spongiosa fungus.

When honeydew begins to collect beneath the aphid colonies, spores from the scorias spongiosa land on these nutrient-rich surfaces and germinate, eventually carpeting the mighty beech’s footprint in a sooty “mold”.  As the fungus grows, fed by a steady rain of honeydew, it produces an asexual, vegetative fruitbody which produces asexual spores (conidia) and eventually sexual spores.  It is as bizarre a lifeform as one could imagine: a moist, spongy blob fed by aphid poop slowly morphing into a mass of spores.  Appetizing?

One might think these blobs are gross, festering with all kinds of nasties which will quickly break down the tissue, leaving a pile of mush.  But, to my surprise, these blobs are persistent things.   Even after a month, when completely matured and colored black by spore deposits, they still held their form and smelled…

..they smelled good.  Kind of like… kombucha.  Fresh, bright, a little sour, but mild.  Not unlike a nice a bottle of champagne the day after the celebration.  Could Eve be hiding inside the blob?  There’s only one way to find out.

In anticipation of finding another blob, I obtained some Beech Forest Honeydew Honey from Amazon.  This seemed the closest thing to the fungus’ meal of choice- the only difference being that honeybees act as an intermediary between the aphid’s pooper and the fungus.  Add water, sterilize, and in go the blobs.

After several days, I peeked into the vials.  “Is that a SCOBY?  Say it’s so!”  The smell was enticing, peach-like.  A week went by, then a month.  This time the smell was too enticing.  In the name of science, I took a swig (kids do NOT try this at home).  “Tastes like Kombucha, but dare I say, better!”  An hour went by, then a day.  No funky GI issues.

With the vials of pale liquid bubbling away promisingly next to my bed, I fell asleep, dreaming of conquest.  My fleet and I sailed across the Pacific towing an enormous bottle.  We stormed the beach where Eve and her sisters lived and captured her, forcing her into the bottle and corking her in with an old palm tree.  We rode the bottle home, drunk on pride and bad rum.

I woke up, grabbed the vials and ran to my lab.  Carefully, I extracted two tiny biofilms and transferred them to jars of honeydew water.  Then I waited, expecting to see a giant mother any day.

After two weeks, it was clear a kombucha mother wasn’t coming.  I tasted some of the new potion Shocked, I realized I’d had a Mother, but not the right one.

Mother of Vinegar.  A strong vinegar.   Humbled and puckered, I returned to my remaining vials.  They’d remained more or less the same.  No invading molds.  Still the same healthy looking film covering.  And the bubble-filled blobs as fresh looking as the day they were plucked.  I took a taste, thinking I may have misjudged the taste the first time I braved a swig, expecting the same enamel-melting acid.

Surprisingly, the taste was pleasant, as I’d remembered it.  Tart, but less acidic than the vinegar I had inadvertently produced.  It seems I had made a critical mistake when I’d transferred the culture from the vials to the jars.  I left the blob behind.  With the blob and vinegar culture working in tandem, the result is a tangy drink worthy of further experimentation.  And after drinking it, I must say, I feel good.  Like I-just-drank-Kombucha good.

My dreams of conquering Eve had been dashed for a season.  But in my pursuit of her, I’d learned something besides humility – that there’s a fungus that can survive liquid immersion, acidic conditions, and produce metabolic compounds that taste darn good.  Not a romantic new discovery, but an informative stumble nonetheless.

As it turns out, I wasn’t the first one to believe in the blob.  A high school student from Long Island successfully isolated the potent anti-bacterial/fungal compound scoriosin from the fungus.  This compound is highly active against candida- so if you’re into cleansing, take note.

If there’s a lesson to take away from this, it’s that medicinal compounds excreted from fungi (the extracellular metabolites and enzymes that fight off infection) can be harnessed in ways that are  low-tech, efficient, and delicious.  In most fungi, the mycelium is what produces these compounds, but in the case of scorias spongiosa, it is the spore-producing material itself (evidenced by the extreme longevity of the blob in the wild).  One doesn’t need a lab to capture these compounds, only  sterile sugar water and some fungal tissue, thanks to the innate bacteria and mold resistance.  Still, the jury is out on what else may be in such a brew, so hold tight before filling your cupboard with beakers of blobs.  In short, don’t eat questionable mushrooms or mysterious liquids.  In even shorter, don’t do what I did.

There’s another lesson here: that high school kids, and even younger, can make important discoveries- like Ailish did.  Members of our species, when we get old, can lose touch with our imagination.  Everything takes imagination, including science.  But no matter what we can dream up, the imagination of Nature, with its dancing snowflakes, honeydew and jiggly blobs, is always the most creative.

keep searching for those scoby snacks (had to say it)

Basics of Fermentation – Back to the Future to the Past

Sourdough, kefir grain, vinegar, kombucha

 

As you may have read in the New York Times last week, ferments are a culinary trend for 2013.  I assume they meant 2013 BC, but you’ll have to read the article to be sure.  Frankly, I don’t care if people explore fermentation because they like how fermented things taste, because they are curious about our relationship with microorganisms or because they want to improve their all-important gut bacteria.  I’m just happy that this “trend” may bring our insane bacteriaphobia to a rapid halt.

To that end, I’ll be teaching a class on the basics of fermentation.  We’ll definitely see how to make a few favorites:  lacto-pickles, kombucha, kefir, sourdough and depending on time, we’ll try some kimchi, sauerkraut, vinegar and/or natural sodas.  This will be a hands-on workshop.  We’ll talk delicious bacteria, taste various ferments, make a couple things and everyone will leave with a culture or a ferment, but no promises on what you’ll end up with.

For now, please email me at Amanda@phickle.com to attend.  I hate that Eventbrite fees cost me an extra attendee and you an extra 10%+, so we’re going the honor system here.  Please know that if you don’t show up when you RSVP, you cost me $10 bucks. I’m not making any money from these classes, I’m just covering my costs, so please, please, please come if you say you will be there.

Indy Hall has been kind enough to let me host this class there!  You do NOT need to be an Indy Hall member to attend, although being an Indy Hall member is awesome, so feel free to join if you want to!

Can’t wait to see you there!

  • What: Fermentation Basics, $10 per person
  • Where: Indy Hall, 20 N. 3rd Street.
  • When: January 27th, 12pm
  • Who: I’m hosting (amanda@phickle.com), hopefully you’re attending!

 

Preserved Lemons

Ready to ferment

When I discovered preserved lemons several years ago, before I was knowingly fermenting on a daily basis, I knew I had struck gold.  Like (probably) most people, I found a recipe adapted from Paula Wolfert (seriously, try to find a preserved lemon recipe not adapted from Paula Wolfert), and I was immediately excited about the possibilities.

Preserved lemons are not your average condiment.  They are versatile:  I use them in every type of cuisine from Indian to Italian.  They brighten a dish and add a flavor that can’t be replicated or beat!  I liken it to savory lemon meringue pie.  That will sound more delicious once you’ve tasted them, I promise.  The peels are transformed into munchables, but I love to use the pulp as well in sauces and dressings.  You can also take a quarter of a finished lemon (pulp included) muddle it in a drinking glass and top it with sweetened water and chill to make Vietnamese salty lemonade.  Don’t knock it til you’ve tried it!

You can make these lemons however you like, with savory seasonings (mustard seeds, dill, rosemary), sweet seasonings (remember your final product will still be salty) or no seasonings at all.  I generally use whole spices, although as an alternative you can mix your salt with powdered spices before you pack your lemons.  You do need salt and lemons, though.  Or meyer lemons, or limes or oranges.  So good!

Lemons waiting to shine

Ingredients:

Organic citrus is more important here than it might usually be because you are actually going to eat the peel.

15 organic lemons, plus 3-4 more for juice (sub limes, oranges, meyer lemons or your other favorite citrus.)

6-8 T sea salt

3 T your preferred spices (clove, cardamom and star anise are what you see pictured)

Process:

I like to make a half gallon jarful of these because they are pretty and therefore make a good hostess gift and because they taste really good and get eaten relatively quickly.  They can be kept on the shelf indefinitely (like a year, at least) or in the fridge for even longer.  You can cut this recipe into halves or thirds with no problem.

  1. Give your lemons a good scrub with your hand or a veggie brush and choose those with unblemished peels.
  2. Put 3 T salt in the bottom of your jar.
  3. Take a lemon and cut as if you are going to quarter it, but stop before the quarters are separated.  Sprinkle sea salt on each plane of exposed lemon flesh.
  4. Close the lemon back up so it looks whole.
  5. Repeat this process with 14 other lemons.
  6. When you have a few cut and salt packed, place them in the jar, and push down with a large wooden spoon, so that the lemons get a little crushed and expel a lot of juice.
  7. Sprinkle salt and a pinch of each spice or seasoning you are using on top of the lemon layer.
  8. Repeat this layering process until all of your 15 lemons are in the jar, make sure they are packed as tightly as you can get them, and that the juice is covering as many lemons as possible.  Compress until you can compress no more.
  9. If the lemons aren’t submerged in juice, thoroughly squeeze the remaining lemons and pour the juice into the jar, until the lemons are covered.
  10. Put on the lid and give her a good shake.  Press the lemons back under the surface of the liquid.  Store at room temperature, out of direct sunlight.
  11. Come back for a shake and submerge every day or so until about a month has passed.
  12. Your lemon peels will be slightly translucent and smooth, the liquid will be cloudy.
  13. Take out a lemon or section as needed and separate the peel from the pulp.  They come apart easily with a little prodding.  If using the peel, dice or mince, and remember, this is both salty and very flavorful.  A little goes a long way!
  14. Make a salad, some pasta, some bread or anything that can be topped and enjoy!

 

RIP, Tiny Friends

SCOBYsaurus Rex and the new offspring that fell from the surface when I moved this to take the pic. At least I know fermentation is happening!

When I worked a corporate job with a long commute, I often dreamed of having fabulous riches that would allow me to use my enormous plot of Center City land to farm like a MacGregor.  No borage, of course, it attracts rats!  But most other things would go.  I would have beekeeper friends tend the hives, chicken-lovers tend the chickens and generally live out my urban-hippie dream teaching kids how to grow amazing things in the ground, to milk the friendly goats and to reap the rewards of gorgeous, fresh produce and tangy cheeses.

There was one problem with this fantasy, however.  Okay, there were many problems with this fantasy, however.  The one that really bugged my fantasy brain was a conflicting fantasy.  You know the one, right?  You pack a bag on a whim, sling it over your shoulder and hop a plane for Patagonia, Paris or Papua New Guinea.  As an avid rooftop and patio container gardner, I know that even a week-long trip in the growing season requires friends to give generously of their time and even then there is very often tragic plant death.  Well, as it turns out, as a farmer of yeasts, bacterias and molds, I face the same challenges.  Finding caretakers for all the ferments that need love within a five week period was a bit of a challenge and normally I like to check in frequently on those that don’t need regular help.

I left my beloved Philly on November 25th and returned the night before last.  I bribed friends to care for my cultures (“That SCOBY will offer you her firstborn!”) and crossed my fingers on a few others.

Here’s how I left things:

Kimchi:  Left some completed batches in the fridge at my parents’ house before we left for Peru.

Result:  Fine, obviously.  We could not have been more grateful for the dose of good bacteria after our trip.

 

Kefir Grains: Asked a former recipient if I could have their babies upon arrival home.  Left a spare set with my sister.

Result:  Crossing fingers for the babies from the friend.  Let’s say a prayer for those left with my sister that their death in a thickened, cheese-like mass wasn’t too painful.

 

Kombucha: Made a fresh batch and left it to ferment.  Left a great SCOBY with a friend.

Result:  SCOBY at home is ENORMOUS!  New batch is made, so we’ll see how fermenting goes.  Friend Abby reports that the SCOBY she has is alive and well, so looks all good on this front.

 

Ginger Beer Starter:  Left out without feeding because I forgot.

Result: Dead as a doornail.  I’m racked with guilt!  However, this is easy to start and I use it for everything, not just ginger beer so she’ll be up again in no time.

 

Sauerkraut:  Left several batches to ferment, figuring that 5 weeks would be just about right.

Result:  Some serious top mold that needed skimming.  They taste great.  Don’t worry friends.  I don’t share my molded ferments, because I think it (wrongly) freaks people out and I’m not a fan of pushing my values on people who aren’t interested.

 

Honey Gin and  Maple Rum Vinegars:  Left ‘em.

Result:  YUM!

 

Cider Vinegar:  Left it to ferment.

Result:  Some seriously awesome looking and smelling vinegar.  Mothers in every batch!

 

Desem Sourdough Starter (aka Hercule):  Left him in the fridge and crossed my fingers.

Result:  A not insubstantial amount of fuzzy mold on top.  Also, he was inactive for five weeks.  Prepared myself for the worst, but after some serious surgery, I was able to salvage a bit of untainted starter and I what I have fermenting now looks and smells great!  More power to Hercule!

 

I finished everything else before we left and didn’t start batches, which was a really good move.  Although I had wanted to have a batch of miso going so that the wait time would seemingly be reduced, but that’s getting started today instead, due to lack of time before we left.  It was three years since our last vacation (trips to parents’ houses don’t count!), and my desire to move my ass around the world a bit is definitely rekindled.  This makes me very grateful that my ferments survived their solitude so well.  Some Peru ferments are soon to come.  Thanks for being patient in my absence!  I’ll be back to posting how-tos this week!